These are my (Michael’s) impressions of Ceska Republika, truly the heart (and possibly the soul) of Europe.
Fields of Yellow (Pole Zlutych) … and not just pale yellow but as my wife exclaimed “botanical sunshine”. We first see these as we land at Ruzyne airport and even the Czech woman sitting next to us does not know what flowers or crop this is. No one knows though we ask and ask. It takes my wife googling some odd set of words later to find out that these are likely fields of rapeseed to be grown as a sort of biofuel source. The site also suggested that this was not without its detractors within the country (perhaps a separate Czechmatediary expose). These fields stayed with us through rain or shine, brightening each day no matter the weather until near the end, the flowers were almost gone from the plants.
The Czech Language (cestina) … My travels in Czech began with a desire to learn Czech, the language, a quest I may find myself on for the rest of my life without likely success in fluency. This, however, is one of those times when I must end up saying that the travel down the path was as worthwhile as the probable unattainable goal. My greatest joy visiting Czech was using this language (to a small degree admittedly) and the delight I found in almost all its citizens when they heard someone have the respect for them and their country to attempt to speak their language. All the sights, sounds, and gastronomic delights could not come close to the feeling I got when Czechs would urge me on with wishes for good luck in my continued Czech studies. What a wonderful feeling to have hotel receptionists, shopkeepers, police and even a woman out walking her dog (nice dog – hezky pes) understand me speaking Czech and me understand them (a little). I’ll never forget this trip for that reason alone.
The Towers of Praha (Veze Prahy) … those towers, those steeples, those spires are everywhere in old Praha and it seems we climbed most of them (I love the aerial view). The powder tower, the bridge towers, the steeple of St. Vitus cathedral in Praha castle – all with stunning views. We could not work in the tower on Petrin Hill (next time). My favorite however is the tower of the Klementinum. Near Karluv most (Charles Bridge), it seems to sit centrally in Praha allowing us to feel as though we are surrounded by the most incredible and diverse architecture to be found anywhere. The twin spires of Tín church to one side, the magnificence of Praha castle to the other. The steeples of Tín church are like no others in interest. It was as if the architect could not simply be pleased with dual spires arising into the sky, he had to make small spires sprout from the primary ones near the top saying to the world ‘top that!’
The Nights of Praha (Noci Prahy) … and if Praha by day is not enough, walk the streets by night. Walt Disney’s Magical Kingdom has nothing on the lights and atmosphere of Praha by night. Stand by the Vltava river and look to the castle (or better yet, sit by the window at the Bellevue restaurant and do the same with Bechorovka in hand) (more on that later). Absolutely captivating! The same can be said for the buildings on old town square (Staromestske Namesti).
Food (Jidlo) … oh, I wish we had a Czech restaurant anywhere near North Carolina. Through the local Czech interest group and this trip, I have learned to crave this food. I went to Czech to experience it, not to just be a spectator. I sampled every type of food I could including carp in Trebon and duck liver at the Století restaurant in Praha (I am not a liver lover). Svickova with knedliky was my favorite but I sampled duck, venison, trout and goulash as well (even curried chicken with pineapples in Kutna Hora – must be the Hawaiian connection). While the ubiquitous lettuce, cucumber, tomato and green peppers were found commonly and without renown, they were at least fresh. On the other hand, from a disinterested cabbage (zelí) eater, I became a hearty fan of the methods found to cook cabbage in Czech – very good.
Drink (Napoj) … Only a few of the famous varieties of beer can be found where we live so to give Czech beer its due, visit the Pivovarsky Klub near Florenc in Praha. Beer heaven! Shelves and shelves of different beers; truly paradise on earth! Czech beers are well known already but I found that Moravian wines are also a delight. Red or white, the dry varieties were as good to our (perhaps less than connoisseur quality) palates as equivalent Italian wines. This was a surprise since the guidebooks only spoke of sweet Moravian wines if mentioned at all. But, in the same sense of trying everything, we tried the wine and continued to do so for the rest of the trip. Then there is the nectar of the Gods – Bechorovka; a distinctly unique liqueur that sends fire to your toes and back again. One guidebook likened Bechorovka to cough medicine. If so, please let me be sick for days on end if Bechorovka is to be my medication.
Buchlov Castle in the mist at twilight (Hrad Buchlov ve mlze v soumraku) … Yes, I read about Buchlov in Czechmatediary and wanted to see it but we had driven in rain and mist all day and it was late so I said forget it. To give my wife credit, she suggested (commanded) that we go. So we drove through many, many small villages and towns in Moravia and got to the castle about 7:30 PM. The castle was closed of course but what a sight. The mist and dark were closing in as we climbed to the front gate and peered upwards to the battlements. Totally alone, we were struck with awe at the sheer primeval sense we felt. It was as if we had passed to another age (the 1300s). Very eerie but very beautiful. And, we got to see much of the Moravian countryside as well.
The Squares (Namesti) …hardly squares at all since all sizes and shapes are found, the square appears to be the center of a town’s life. Each has its church or two as well as the radnice (town hall) and lined with the most fantastic building facades, each building unique and artistic. Each square has its fountain or two, its restaurants and shops (and one with its apparent Maypole). The namesti are obviously the heart and soul of each town but we could only spend a little time in each to our disappointment.
Pistina … my wife‘s greatgrandfather came from here and her great grandmother from P?íbraz, the neighboring village near the Austrian border. We found the house in which her great grandfather was born (#43) in this three street village with its small chapel sitting next to the large centrally situated carp pond. A very touching moment for my wife. This was a wonderful culmination of my interest in Czech; to bring her here to see her roots.
Two Gems (Dva drahokamy) … Cesky Krumlov and Marianske Lazne. These are two of the lovliest places I’ve ever been. We spent extra days in each place, planned in Cesky Krumlov and because we ran out of steam in Marianske Lazne (Karlovy Vary will have to wait). Both places are small enough to wander around by foot and still feel that you have seen them well. I remember Cesky Krumlov for its subterranean restaurants to its views from Castle Krumlov, from its astronomical sundials on the walls of the Castle and Hotel Ruze to the kayakers trying to remain upright on the Vltava below. I remember Marianske Lazne for its quiet splendor and reminder of the early 1900’s to the incredible cappuccino and delectable bakery items of the Café Amsterdam; from the bright yellows of the buildings to the beautiful park with its Kolonada spa and fountains. The tranquility was enough to have us change our plans and stay in town and not drive further.
So, Jan and I made a deal under his (Jan Zizka) statue. I would continue informing and extolling all things Czech while learning his language and in return, he would keep me to my word to learn it (he does carry a rather large sword).
I could go on and on but let this suffice for a glimpse of the Czech Republic from a non-Czech but from one to whom this country, its people and its language mean so much. To paraphrase Julius Caesar ‘Prijel jsem, videl jsem ale nepremohl jsem’ (I came, I saw but I didn’t conquer). There is so much more….
…. Of course, there was also a much more humorous side but perhaps later …
If you liked this post buy me a coffee! (Suggested:$3 a latte $8 for a pound) Thanks!
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